A Seething Mass

24 April 2009
Well the plane trip went pretty fast, considering it was 12 hours long that is. Now I know what everyone is wondering so I won't make you wait... what movies were showing? Between us we watched: Nixon & Frost, Doubt, Revolutionary Road, Madagascar 2, and The curious case of Benjamin Button... If you can guess who watched what then you can be the first person to get a post card- one tip to get you started we both saw Doubt.
Getting out of Mumbai airport was easy, Indian customs- a non event. Found the pre-paid taxi stand easily, I (Karly) decided to be a hero and request a non AC Taxi, BIG MISTAKE (I obviously wasn't fully thawed from the plane yet). Anyhoo.. two hours later and we are still crawling through traffic to Colaba (part of Mumbai where our hotel was) and I was seriously regretting the non AC choice. Truth was it wouldn't have been so bad if we weren't both wearing skinny leg black jeans :)
We finally found our hotel after our taxi ignored my directions (I'd been following our progress with the trusty Lonely Planet map) gave us a roundabout tour of Colaba, then once he'd verified my directions with 'random street guy' we made it to Bentley's Hotel in Oliver Road. Straight away I loved it. The price was cheaper than on the internet, it was spotlessly clean and even the bathroom/ toilet were as clean as the 5 star places I've stayed in India. Oh and the guy carried our bags and didn't ask for a tip! Hallelujah! Only downside was that the AC didn't work, but first thing in the morning I told them and they fixed it. Also there are a concerningly large number of crows that hang out on the alley next to our building... creepy.

25th April 2009
Mumbai really is a crazy, dirty, massive, sprawling metropolis. Don't come here if you like country life and fresh air.
But do come here if you like architecture. We have discovered it is the art deco capital of the universe. There are some gorgeous old buildings of various styles, art deco, art nouveau, victorian, neoclassical, and venetian gothic to name a few! First thing in the morning we did a walking tour (guided by none other than... me- much to Nicks annoyance as he hates being told where to go I've found).



Starting at the 'Gateway of India' we met and Indian guy who claimed to be an Aussie and cited Glebe Point Rd as his home :) Then he tried his best to sell us a tour but I was determined to be tour guide that day. I told Nick to ignore anyone who says hello, as mean as that sounds because otherwise you will be pulled into a laboured conversation which ends in them trying to sell you a deluxe AC fully guided tour of etc etc... Anyway our walking tour took in all the local architectural wonders of Mumbai, the highlights of which were the Taj Hotel, Elphinstone College, New India Assurance Company Building, the High Court and Mumbai Uni.





We were getting pretty tired and hungry by this point so we headed back to Colaba and into the welcoming arms of Leopold Cafe. I know, I know... could we be anymore of a backpacker cliche? But its clean, reliable and has some pretty disturbing souvenirs of the recent Mumbai attacks, i.e. bullet holes in the windows and doors and a permanent ancient looking security guard posted outside (unless he's always been there? He doesn't look like he would deter any would-be terrorists!).



(look closely over my shoulder for the bullet holes)


After a well deserved rest in our AC room, we headed back out to purchase train tickets near Churchgate Train Station for our next leg- Jaipur and Jodphur. It took a while and India's famous beuracracy was in full swing but the people were helpful and we managed to book 2nd class AC tickets (the very last two on the whole train for the Mumbai to Jaipur leg!!) Again we headed back to Colaba and hit the local corner store for a quick Chai and some refreshments. Tonight we plan to head to Lakshmi Villas (street stand on steroids, famous for Dosas) for some dinner before getting a taxi or walking over to Chowpatty beach for a stroll and maybe some Ice cream.